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Passion For Pinot at the NY TIMES
Posted by: tpoteet On 02/08/2010 10:00 AM
Praise and appreciation for Millbrook's Pinot Noir in writer. Alice Gabriel's article, "Love, Wine & Chocolate" posted yesterday in the New York Times.
NY TIMES, February 7, 2010
Love, Wine and Chocolate, by Alice Gabriel
For wine-loving locavores, Millbrook Vineyards and Winery, in Dutchess County, has a Valentine’s Day gift that might be more welcome than the usual heart-shaped box of chocolates.
Called Passion for Pinot Noir, the selection of three ruby-red pinot noirs, all made with New York State fruit from the 2007 vintage, includes a proprietor’s special reserve as well as the winery’s first vineyard-designated wine, Block Five East, which won the 2009 Cornell Cup for Best Wine of the Hudson Valley, awarded by the Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Association. The wines, costing $60, come in a festive red box bearing a French proverb: “Without wine, love is nothing.”
Pinot Noir is a tricky grape to grow in any climate, but 2007 was kind to the local crop. “It was a warm, dry year from flowering right through harvest,” John Graziano, Millbrook’s winemaker since 1984, said in a phone interview. “Our growing season is very similar to Burgundy’s, which I guess is why it seems to work.”
And which is ripe understatement. His nicely balanced pinots are indeed more Burgundian that Californian: delicate and restrained, with subtle earthiness and delicious sweet-tart cherry and pomegranate flavors. For sweethearts who like bubbles instead, Millbrook offers a duet of its 2002 Brut Proprietor’s Special Reserve and, yes, chocolates for $40.
The elegant sparkler, a blend of New York State chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, is made in the traditional méthode champenoise and custom bottled for Millbrook by the reputable Chateau Frank, in the Finger Lakes region. It, too, comes in a red box, along with four pieces of chocolate — white peaches and cream, galaxy way, scarlet caramel and cognac crème brûlée — from Oliver Kita Fine Confections in Rhinebeck.
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